I did not have this type of pattern on my LB7 (junk was every where and not just in these areas). If you look at the debris pattern on my pics above, the debris seemed to be most focused on the outer part of the fan blades, or where the guard sealed against the fan shroud. The fan shroud directs the air flow across the radiator and the guard was just a ridiculous impediment to changing the belt, fan, etc. I looked at the fan guard before I removed it and I didn't see any redeeming benefit.
LB7 COOLANT CAPACITY MODS
I'd guess it was the cleaning of the stack, followed by the grille mods that helped the most. Like I said, I'm not sure what contributed the most, the flush out, the cleaning of the stack, or opening up the aftermarket billet grille. At 24K lbs, I'd always have to turn off the air with my LB7. I forgot to mention the outside temperature was 105 when I was towing through Vegas (the Baker Pass). If I recall, the system is around 26 quarts (about 6.5 gals). Question: Seems to me that after flushing 4 times with distilled water (following two flushes with tap water), I should add about three gallons of straight antifreeze to get close to a 50/50 mix.
The stock version was ridiculous where it would lock up (around 230-240F). While I was in there I replaced the fan clutch to use the Hayden 2580, which is supposed to lock up at a lower temperature than the stock version. Should have about 20% of its cooling capacity restored now. Took the intercooler out and cleaned it thoroughly and then cleaned the a/c condenser. I tow a few times a year at max GCVW and need all the cooling I can get climbing through the CA, AZ and UT desert mountains. Pretty bad by my standards but I normally do this about every two years and doubt this LBZ, with 55K miles, ever had the stack cleaned. I've seen pics of worse but below is what my radiator looked like. This will allow me to change the fan belt on the side of the road in 15 minutes vs. Best advice I got here was to cut up the fan guard and throw it away. The LBZ radiator is much harder to remove from the truck than my '01 LB7 but like everything, once you do a time or two, it should be easier next time. And last but not least, the oil filler bracket that get in the way for the air purge on top of the thermostat housing.
I hope GM fired the engineer responsible for the cooling design on the LBZ No drain on the radiator, a funky clip and o-ring that blows out, the stupid fan guard that makes everything harder, the fan clutch that works great when it locks up at a very high 230-240F. Did this about 4 times with my LB7 that I owned for 12 years. Finally got around to cleaning the new to me LBZ. BTW i have a 37 chevy cpe BBC-t400 narrowed rear big M/t tires-65 vette- 3x 66 ss chevelles- 86 M/Carlo SS- + 9 X chevy pu & duallys w/ SBC -BBC-6.2-6.5-& 1 x DMAX & a BOWTIE TATTOO on my arm, ( not bragging about anything ) just stating that I AM a TRUE GM MAN.BUT GM should take the DMAX INJ & STICK THEM IN THEIR - A$$. anyway for about $1500 more i have a low mile eng + a spare, i think my eng would have been just fine w/new inj, did not want to gamble w/gm warranty. HI NOSLIW, I purch the truck with supposedly 1 bad inj in june 05, well it has 3 bad inj + 2 more on there way, it runs like a bear, but will smoke out anyone behind me idle i was going to buy new inj but GM only has 12000- 12 month warr, this truck is on its 3rd set (before i got it) & had only 8 months, but over on miles(3rd set), SO i thought i would buy another ENG, i got a complete 18000 km eng from ebay out of canada, the only problem now, is my truck had emissions, the new one did not, & the as described (complete ) wiring harness was missing plugs, so now im searching for a non emission harness, my truck has been apart for 2 weeks now, cant wait to get it back together.
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